After a night train from Venice to Nice, the next stop was Carcassonne, the medieval walled city in southwest France, and site of the bloodiest battles of the Albigensian Crusade. Carcassonne's fortifications and its church, the Cathedral of St-Nazaire, were restored in the 19th Century by Viollet-le-Duc, whose new roofs, while not quite authentic, give the city an even more romantic feel. The double walls and fifty-three towers are now haunted by more tourists than ghosts of Cathar heretics.