My second full day in the Lake District was spent in the fells of Buttermere, where signs of ancient settlement were supposedly visible in the hills. The local ranger told me that they were nearly impossible to find, but nevertheless I braved the rain for a muddy hike until the mountain path dissolved into a waterfall. Despite my disappointment, the region was the epitome of the beautiful Lake District, and the walk along the Buttermere lake and Crummock Water was certainly worth the wet and the mud.