The town of Taormina was founded in the 4th century B.C. by exiles from the former city of Naxos. They had good taste. Eventually the Romans took over the town on account of its natural fortifications and its wine; by the time we arrived in 2004, Taormina was better known as a writer's escape, having served as a productive haven for D.H. Lawrence, Daphne Phelps, and Halldor Laxness. We, of course, knew little of this at the time, but nevertheless enjoyed a lovely night in the tourist-filled town, walking among street vendors and gazing back at smoldering Mt. Etna in the distance. The following morning saw us hiking up to the ruins of the gorgeously-situated Greek theater, one of the most celebrated ruins in Sicily, and frolicking in the warm water of the Mediterranean.